From the Apothecary: Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)

When most blooms are tucking in for the evening, evening primrose flowers burst with vitality. True to its name, this delightful botanical opens its showy yellow petals just as the sun goes down. The most precious part of this plant, however, is its small seeds and precious oils therein.

Rather than an essential oil, which is typically extracted from flowers, evening primrose oil is a seed oil obtained through the seeds.

Oenothera biennis is a biennial (meaning it has two-year life cycle) in the Onagraceae family. Despite the name, it’s not a true primrose (Primula). It is native to much of North America, and in the same family as fuchsias and fireweed. 

History & Mythos 

Accounts of Indigenous traditional use in North America describe evening primrose preparations from leaves and stems useful for sore throats and indigestion. The roots have historical accounts of being boiled and eaten as a vegetable.

Evening primrose eventually made its way to Europe as a night-blooming favourite in cottage gardens. Today, it is a staple in skincare and our home apothecaries.

Evening Primrose Contains

Linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid. This makes up most of the seed oil. Since our bodies cannot make linoleic acid, we obtain it through our food. Our bodies rely on omega-6’s, as it is heavily involved in maintaining tissue structure and affects our skin’s ability to retain moisture.

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), another omega-6 fatty acid. This is the reason evening primrose oil is so widely researched in biological pathways. GLA can be converted into compounds that affect inflammatory signalling, which is the chemical messages that regulate our response to injury or irritation. 

Small amounts of tocopherols and plant sterols. Tocopherols are forms of vitamin E that help protect fats from oxidation, and plant sterols are compounds that help form plant cell membranes. These compounds may have minor effects on the skin barrier and inflammation.

Polyphenols, including tannins, are found in the leaves and stems. Extracts of which have some antioxidant activity. Tannins lend a mildly astringent quality. 

Dry Skin and Body Care

Evening primrose oil is a wondrous emollient: it softens dry skin and adds a certain richness to oil blends. We can attribute this to its high linoleic acid content. This is exactly why it’s so prized in skincare. 

In one study involving dermatitis, an evening primrose oil preparation helped support the skin barrier. The same benefit was not seen in another formulation, implying that evening primrose specifically was the beneficial compound within the context of this study. 

For everyday use, add your evening primrose oil to a body oil or massage blend. Apply to slightly damp skin. As it is quite rich, you can pair it with a lighter carrier oil for a more comfortable finish, or use it in your evening routine Those who experience acne may also wish to dilute with a lighter oil, as it may cause breakouts in reactive persons when used neat.

Skin Support from Within

Evening primrose oil also comes in softgels for oral use. In one placebo-controlled trial, adults taking it for 12 weeks showed improvements in skin moisture, reduced water loss, elasticity, firmness, and roughness. In a separate trial involving people with atopic dermatitis, eczema severity improved after four months.

Safety & Precautions

For topical use, always patch-test a new product, especially if your skin is reactive. Earth's Aromatique bottled oil is sold with topical blending directions; do not assume a skin-care oil is approved for ingestion. Choose a product specifically labelled for consumption if you are considering taking evening primrose internally.

Some studies show evening primrose as having an effect on maternity, and safety in this regard is not firmly established. Do not take evening primrose oil if you are pregnant without strict guidance from your health care provider. 

Storage 

As this oil is rich in polyunsaturated fats, it is prone to oxidation. Keep the bottle tightly closed, cool, and away from light. Refrigeration is recommended. If the oil smells stale “like old nuts,” or noticeably different, it is time to replace it.

Choose Mindfully

At Optimum Health, we carry carefully selected evening primrose oils, from Earth’s Aromatique cold-pressed seed oil and high-quality supplements to natural skin and hair care formulas featuring this nourishing botanical oil: Evening Primrose Oil Collection.

If you're unsure which form best fits with your routine, connect with us  or stop by one of our Edmonton-area stores for in-person advice. 

We're happy to help you find the right plant for the job!

References

Chung, B. Y., Park, S. Y., Jung, M. J., Kim, H. O., & Park, C. W. (2018). Effect of evening primrose oil on Korean patients with mild atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study. Annals of Dermatology.

European Medicines Agency. (2018, June 5). Assessment report on Oenothera biennis L. or Oenothera lamarckiana L., oleum.

Gehring W, Bopp R, Rippke F, Gloor M. Effect of topically applied evening primrose oil on epidermal barrier function in atopic dermatitis as a function of vehicle. Arzneimittelforschung. 1999.

Granica, S., Czerwińska, M. E., Piwowarski, J. P., Ziaja, M., & Kiss, A. K. (2013). Chemical composition, antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activity of extracts prepared from aerial parts of Oenothera biennis L. and Oenothera paradoxa Hudziok obtained after seeds cultivation. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

Muggli, R. (2005). Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science..

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Oenothera biennis L., Plants of the World Online.